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For excerpt permission contact the USBCC at info@bordercollie.org

In loving memory of Val Maurer’s Moss – One in a Lifetime

Description of the Border Collie

Border Collies should be selectively bred for intelligence and working ability. To herd sheep on the mountains and moorlands of the British Isles, a Border Collie needs to meet certain criteria. He has to be independent enough to make his own decisions when he is at a distance from the shepherd. He must control his predatory instincts so he protects the sheep instead of killing them for food---as a wolf must do for survival. He also needs to nip or grip, at times, to control and move his sheep. He needs the stamina to work in heat or cold, to dart up and down steep hills, and to ignore minor injuries in the course of a workday. He also must be bred with a desire to work with, and subordinate to, his human companion, regardless of whether he is at a great distance or striving to save a newborn lamb.

A Border Collie can be anywhere from 25 pounds to 65 pounds. The coat can be rough (long coat), semi-rough, or smooth (short-haired). The coat colors vary. The typical colors are black & white, but Border Collies are also red & white, tri-colored (brown, black & white), liver, blue merle, red merle, yellow, or white with small amounts of brown, black, or red. Freckling on the muzzle and legs is common. The eye colors range from amber to dark brown and sometimes blue. The ear carriage can be pricked, semi-erect, dropped, or a combination. The bone structure ranges from lightweight and graceful to heavy-boned and majestic. In herding, Border Collies circle and stalk the object of interest.

Health Problems

Border Collies are basically a hardy breed; however, they can be subject to some inherited diseases such as collie eye anomaly (CEA), canine hip dysplasia, and deafness. Some could have epilepsy and endocrine diseases, with unknown inheritance factor. Osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) can cause lameness in joints, particularly the shoulders, that can develop between the ages of 4 to 12 months. Allergies and skin conditions also occur.

Keep handy a first-aid kit and your vet's phone number. Because Border Collies are very physically active, they are prone to athletic injuries, such as pulled muscles, cruciate ligament ruptures, cuts and punctures, ripped toenails and footpads. The dog also requires vaccinations, heartworm test and preventative, license, spay/neuter, and premium dog food (a combination of high quality dry and
moist foods is best).

Puppy Checklist

Do you have the time for a long, sometimes hectic, puppy stage? If not, consider adopting an adult Border Collie.
Can you understand the pup's pedigree and its significance? If not, find a local person who knows Border Collie breeding to advise you.
Can the breeder show you certification that the parents are free of hip dysplasia and that the pup is free of Collie Eye Anomaly?
Did you ask why these parents were selected for breeding?
Did the breeder ask about your reason for wanting a Border Collie?
Does the breeder seem to care, or are the pups strictly a business?
Are the pups at least 6 to 8 weeks old? Have they been de-wormed? Is their “den” clean?
Are the parents well-behaved and reasonably friendly toward your family?
Have the pups been raised in an expanding environment, with both indoor and outdoor living and socializing with people and other animals?

Pups are generally priced from $400-$800. Good puppies are expensive to breed and raise and should be priced accordingly. However, high price is not a guarantee of a good dog, and health problems can occur in any breeding program, no matter how careful and knowledgeable the breeder is. Your purchase decides which breeders and rescuers prosper. Your purchase can help or hinder cash crop breeders and puppy mills. Your purchase decision is vital for the future of this breed. Choose your breeder with care, and never buy from pet shops.

Recommendations for House Training

After the puppy has been confined in a crate 2 to 3 hours (4 to 6 hours for adults):

1. In a quiet, up-beat manner, take him on leash to the bathrooming area.
2. Choose a bathrooming phrase you are comfortable with, such as “Go potty or “Hurry up,” and say the phrase a few times. Keep this as low-key as possible. If the dog can’t run around to investigate interesting smells, he’ll go to the bathroom out of sheer boredom.
3. If the dog does his “business” within a maximum of 5 minutes, say, “Good (bathrooming phrase),” then play fetch, give him a treat, or let him romp around in his yard.
4. If he doesn’t “go,” take him back to the crate for another half hour (young pup) or an hour (older pup or adult dog), then try again.

Take a few days to concentrate on housetraining. Learn the dog's bathrooming habits. Some dogs are more comfortable with shrubs or fencing to protect their privacy. Other dogs need to urinate twice each time they bathroom. A few dogs teach their owners to take long, frequent strolls around the yard or neighborhood; use the 5 minute system to prevent this.

Your Border Collie will quickly learn that the fun part of his day doesn't begin until after he's been a "good" dog outside. Rubbing a Border Collie's nose in an "accident," smacking him on the rear end, or yelling at him increases housetraining problems.

Females sometimes won't relieve themselves in new territory for about 24 hours; a bathroom command can come in handy here. Intact males mark everywhere, including inside buildings, for the first hour in new territory.

Walking a Border Collie

Many Border Collies want to forge (pull the handler forward) while on-leash. To eliminate this problem, start by holding a treat or toy in front of the dog's nose (dog is on a buckle collar and 6' leash, in 'heel' position) while taking a quick walk in the home. Praise and intermittent rewards will teach the dog to stay in heel position. Outdoors, to keep the dog's attention on staying in heel position use a combination of luring with treats or toys plus changing directions without saying anything to warn of the changes. Every time a Border Collie forges, change direction or pace. The surprise element keeps a Border Collie's attention on the handler.

Promise collars are beneficial as a temporary training tool for dealing with specific problems, such as a Border Collie so distracted by the world that he forgets his handler. Use of this collar as a basic training collar for all lessons may cause anxiety and dependency issues for Border Collies, however.



Most Border Collies learn easily and happily. Some may require the temporary training use of a light (not medium or heavy) pinch collar. Children and disabled adults are safer when a Border Collie wears a pinch collar---less chance of the dog pulling them off-balance. Do not use a pinch collar on Border Collies younger than 8 months without a behaviorist's supervision. The training application is similar to the way an adult dog will use his teeth on a puppy’s neck to guide and instruct the puppy. Beginners should seek the advice of a trainer to learn the correct techniques in fitting and using pinch collars.

Training Tips

Tone of voice is extremely important. To speed up a Border Collie, pitch the voice high and quick. Lower the pitch and drag out the words to slow him down. For corrections, lower the voice even more and say the words in a growly tone. Most of the time, talk to a Border Collie in a conversational tone. Whisper to a Border Collie to improve his attention.

To bring a Border Collie toward you, move away from him. To push him away, move toward him. Take two steps backwards and hunker down to pull a Border Collie all the way to you. Let your emotions show through your eyes to your Border Collie's eyes. To show disappointment, look at your Border Collie and then deliberately look away. If the Border Collie isn't paying attention, throw up your hands and walk away. He'll usually come up to you and ask for another chance. Give him that chance by calmly taking him through the same situation, this time using a leash and treats as guidance. Set him up to succeed.

Border Collies like a chance to think about new things in relative quiet. Use an hour of "Peace & Quiet" after lessons for any Border Collie, either rescued or raised in one home from a pup. This results in quicker and steadier learning.

Tie your dog's 6' leash to your belt while teaching him his daily chore routines. Whether his chores include picking up laundry scattered around the house or keeping you company while you're caring for the livestock, learning the routine while "attached" to you is the easiest way to teach him the pattern of your lifestyle.

Training stick: Use 5' length, 3/4" diameter PVC pipe, capped on one end. Pour in 1/8 cup of BBs and cap the other end. This stick is effective for herding, breaking up dog fights, eliminating foodguarding. A sharp tap on the ground in front of the dog's legs startles him without scaring him. A tap on the ground near his shoulder will move him away if he's herding too close to livestock or other dogs. To refocus the dog on listening and working with you, lay the stick on the ground next to you and give him a quiet word of encouragement. He should respect the correction and startlement effect of the training stick, not fear it.

Hunker down---bend at the knees, keep the torso straight. Use a hunker down when a pup or dog is in a new environment or around dogs enduring stress. Only bend or crouch (torso towards the dog) around relaxed and socialized dogs.

Basic Border Collie Manners

Name recognition: Say the dog's name, then give him a treat. Keep repeating as often as it takes for the dog to start turning his head whenever he hears his name.

Recall: Use the leash in the house, a longline outside. Say the dog's name to get his attention, then an upbeat "Here!" If he doesn't turn around immediately, give a light tug on the line. When the dog comes, give praise, a treat, and a hug. Make recalls the best thing in your dog's life. If the dog is hesitant, take a few steps backward after calling him and hunker down.

Praise: Ask the dog to do something, like a Sit. When he's sat, tell him "Good Sit." The use of praise with the request gives the dog a chance to learn faster. Give him praise for figuring out on his own what he should do. If we remember to praise him for thinking, we help him to be a mannerly dog on his own and not just a robot. Quietly praise during the correct action.

Correction: To stop an action, give a "No!" or an "Ah-Ah!" noise in a growly tone. This corrective growl is useless if it isn't immediately followed by a lesson and praise for the proper action.

Jumping: Teach the dog to sit for attention. If the dog already has a habit of jumping on people, say "Off!" and quickly turn away from the dog. Do not push the dog away with your hands; touching rewards him for jumping. Withdraw your attention from the dog until he Sits. To reinforce the Sit, hunker down to the dog's level; he'll be calmer when he's close to your face. A "Hug!" can later be added, if the dog is to be allowed to jump in certain circumstances.

Barking: Respect your dog by investigating why he is barking. If it’s something he shouldn’t be barking at, just walk away from him in a disappointed manner, muttering about how stupid he is (Border Collies hate being called stupid). If he barks appropriately, praise him. Allow your dog to bark 2 or 3 times before saying “Enough!” and give him a treat. It’s hard to bark and swallow at the same time. The result is a trustworthy watchdog.

Naptime: Give yourself and your Border Collie a break now and then. Say “Go to bed” and throw a treat into the crate (kennel) or dog-proofed room. Teach him with short sessions at first until the dog learns he isn’t being permanently abandoned.

Sit, Down & Stay: Raise a treat slowly over the dog's nose and say "Sit." The rump should go down as the nose comes up. After the dog knows Sit, slowly tap a treat along the floor in front of the dog's nose as you're dragging out the word "Down." After the dog knows Down, put a treat a few inches in front of his nose, say "Stay" and hold him in place by his collar. When he relaxes into the Stay reward him by bringing the treat to him.

Release: Whatever the dog has, you have something better. If he has a toy in his mouth, take a treat over to him, hold it in front of his nose, and say "Release!" as you offer him the treat.

That'll do!: Every time a job is finished, say "That'll do." This will teach the Border Collie to quit and come to you. To prevent him from ignoring a "That'll do," use intermittent reinforcement techniques (see page 14). For example: he's been catching Frisbees. Withdraw the Frisbee, give a "That'll do," walk a short distance with your dog and wait until he is calm and attentive. Tell him "Ball!" and toss a tennis ball for him a few times. The surprise of one job ending with the possibility of another job beginning makes a reliable "That'll do." Use a "That'll do" with all his activities, be it obedience, herding or tennis balls. He will respond better to "That'll do" than a Recall or a Down when he is overly excited about something, if you've been consistent.

Border Collie Personalities

A bold personality will need a reason for doing anything. He will always be testing the boundaries you’ve set. He will be the quickest to protest if you withhold work for some reason. He can also be the dog you depend on most, if you’ve earned his respect and trust.

A timid personality will need lots of encouragement. Give a timid dog at least three days to adjust to new situations and training. Don’t give up on socializing this type of dog, but always start new training in a quiet environment. Gradually work up to loud, stressful situations. This Border Collie will be your emotional support when you’ve had a bad day.

A melancholy personality can be either frustrating or amusing. This dog will quit and lie down in a corner if things don’t go his way. Just ignore him for awhile—even these pouters are workers and will come around. Combine training with rewards of his favorite activities.

An upbeat personality takes life as it comes and makes the best of it. He watches everything. You won’t realize the dog is learning until he amazes you with his new skills. He’s a stable, versatile dog. He’ll do everything asked of him; be careful not to overwhelm him.

Rehomed and Rescued Border Collies

Peace & Quiet: The first steps to a new life for an older pup or adult Border Collie is 3 to 7 days of "peace & quiet" and a name change, unless your rescuer has already taken the dog through this phase. The rescued dog probably endured all kinds of stress before he was saved---let him get some rest before exposing him to this big, noisy world of ours.

The new Border Collie stays in a crate away from other dogs and the noise of household activity. Only one person works with the dog during this stage. Let the Border Collie out, on leash, 4 to 5 times a day, for fifteen to thirty minutes each time. This technique is hard on people, but it works like a re-birth into a new and better life for the dog. He'll learn to trust the person who is the source of all encouragement, water, food, directions, and hugs.

Isolation gives the Border Collie a chance to learn his new environment in a relaxed, safe atmosphere. His brain has a chance to stay calm and receptive to new lessons. He has a chance to grieve or recover from his previous life experiences. Teach the dog as if he's an 8 week old pup; use clear instructions and encouragement. This is also a good time to teach or reinforce housetraining and basic manners. The most important thing to remember is to set the dog up for success every time he's with people.

The amount of "peace & quiet" is determined by the dog's reaction. The dog should be happy, but not hysterically so. He should have a calmness in his eyes and show enthusiasm for being with someone. A desire to learn will appear in the dog's posture and response time. When this happens, the dog is ready to learn more of his new world.

Herding With Border Collies

An inexperienced handler working with an inexperienced Border Collie and inexperienced livestock can end in injury to at least one of the three species. Be prepared to invest time and money in learning before you take a new dog into the field.



Help in training is available in a variety of ways. Purchasing a started dog or sending your dog to a professional trainer will cost more money than time. (A started dog generally means that the dog is learning to balance, is going around, and can stay on the opposite side of sheep. Sometimes this definition is stretched a little to include beginning a short outrun and learning flank commands, but never more than that. Expect only the beginning of balancing and no outrun to speak of.) You still need to invest the time to learn what your dog already knows. Herding clinics, herding books, and videos take more time than money.

At first, the expense of a started dog, herding clinics, books, videos, or lessons with an experienced handler doesn't seem worth the bother, but the investment will eventually pay off in time saved and chiropractor bills avoided!

Carefully choose the right disposition of the Border Collie for your livestock. A calmer, level-headed dog is just right for a small dairy herd (as long as he has the spunk or training to nip wayward cows). A dog with great stamina and dive-in style is good for discouraging geese (as long as the dog is trained not to hurt the geese).

It's also important to understand what type of dog you enjoy working with. An easy, people-pleasing temperament is the right type of Border Collie to work with young 4-H students. People who can't help but yell and stomp around a bit when they are frustrated would be better off with a dog with a more dominant personality that won't take the yelling personally. If, after you've done all the right research and tried various training methods, you still end up with the wrong Border Collie for you or your livestock, contact the breeder or your local rescuer to find an appropriate new home for your dog (if you have no time for the activities this dog enjoys). Chalk it up to lack of experience and keep looking.

Thunderstorms and Loud Noises

Border Collies have a high startle reflex, which can sometimes endanger their lives. The suddenness of a clap of thunder, a gunshot, fireworks, or even just a book dropping on the floor can startle Border Collies into an over-reaction. These over-reactions can include nipping at the closest objects, dogs or people; leaping onto the lap of the person they feel will protect them; frenzied barking at the noise to scare it away; and, the most dangerous reaction of all, fleeing from the noise.

Give your Border Collie a routine to follow for sudden loud noises. Practice this routine (use a leash or a long-line during practice sessions) by using small sudden noises first and progressing towards louder noises until the dog tolerates the really big scary noises safely. Find a routine that can be adapted to use while you are outside doing activities with your dog, in the home while relaxing, and that the dog can use when alone.

One routine is to attach an activity the dog loves to the noise the dog fears. If the dog loves to play with squeaky toys, play with the dog and then make a small noise. When the dog flees, coax the dog back by enticing with the toy while gently pulling the dog towards you with the leash. The dog’s reward for coming to you (no matter how long it takes the first few times) is another play session. Your dog will learn to enjoy what used to be scary. Another routine is to teach the dog to flee towards a safe goal, such as a crate placed in a quiet area of your home.

Intermittent Reinforcement

Intermittent reinforcement is like playing the lottery. A person does a consistent action (paying for a lottery ticket) and receives an inconsistent reaction (no cash, some cash, huge amount of cash). Intermittent reinforcement is a good reward system for a Border Collie after he’s learned the basics using the lure/reward system

Intermittent Corrections

Intermittent corrections create the same effect of encouraging a behavior as do intermittent reinforcements. A Border Collie who is yelled at some of the time for jumping on people, petted some of the time for jumping, and ignored some of the time has actually been taught to always jump on people. A Border Collie who can ignore a Recall is actually being taught to not come when he's called. If he's dragging a longline or leash when he's Recalled, he can't ignore the command. Use tabs, leashes and longlines throughout the lure/reward and intermittent reinforcement stages of training to help him learn manners and safety.

Border Collie Work Ethic

If you don't find jobs for your dog, he'll find his own. Most of the time, you won't like the jobs your Border Collie finds! More annoying jobs can be things like herding squirrels, digging giant craters in the backyard, constantly whining and pushing at people, or cornering cats and holding them there for hours. Border Collies' more dangerous jobs can be herding cars, swooping out at people and ferociously barking which can be misinterpreted as viciousness, or herding owners which could lead to a nasty fall.

If he's already chasing cats, the easiest way to control the behavior is to turn herding cats into a job he does with you in control. If he's digging craters in the backyard, create a digging hole for him out of harm's way. If he's constantly whining, give him the security of a consistent daily schedule of play, work, suppertime, and bedtime. If he's already chasing cars, get some help before he's seriously injured or dead.

Aggression

Get help, but be careful. Border Collies are often misdiagnosed by veterinarians and behaviorists with little or no experience with this breed. There are many complicated factors in dealing with aggression problems.

People have language to communicate angers, fears, and pains. We can call for help or remove ourselves from tense or dangerous situations. We can use our teeth, fists, clubs, knives, guns, and nuclear weapons. If one person kills another, our system might throw him in prison for awhile. But our dogs have few options for communicating their angers, fears, and pains to us. Warning growls, lip-curls, and biting are part of a dog's language. When a dog is hurt, confused, or scared and protects himself by displaying what we call aggression, our system condemns him to death. Doesn't seem quite fair.